Gelées and Chauds-Froids

Natural meat and fish gelées (sometimes called aspics) are among the most subtle and delicious of foods, and can be the most beautiful: A breast of chicken or fillet of fish surrounded by a golden herb-specked gelée is a delightful sight. Because aspics lend themselves to manipulation—their intrinsic quality compromised by the addition of excess gelatin—they are thought of more as building materials for the far-flung fantasies of late-nineteenth-century French cooking than as delicate accompaniments to cold meats or fish. An authentic gelée is the natural cooking liquid from meat or fish that sets when cold. In France, the term aspic usually refers to a meat or fish preparation that has been molded and held together with the appropriate gelée. In the United States, where the word jelly brings to mind fruit preserves, aspic is most often used to refer to any dish that includes meat or fish gelée.