Tomato Sauces

Italian cooks use tomatoes in several ways: as a moistening liquid in braises, stews, and meat (ragù) and seafood sauces; raw, coarsely chopped and simply tossed with pasta, usually olive oil, and often with herbs or other ingredients such as olives, anchovies, or capers; added to a soffritto and gently simmered until thick; and baked or dried, then more or less finely chopped to a sauce-like consistency (see also “Tomatoes,”.