In her book on the Scots household in the eighteenth century, Marion Lochhead writes about tea-parties of the day, when the hostess ‘must have a plate of bun and one of shortbread – either in a cake, broken into bits, or in little, round nickety Tantallon cakes, or in the favourite “petticoat tails” . . .’
Many years on, it still appears at all the best tea-parties and also on special occasions such as Hogmanay (sitting alongside the black bun) but is still as regular a feature in Scottish kitchens as porridge or mince.