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I remember where I was the first time I had rocket: age 10, in corduroys and wellies, at Edna Whyte and Audrey Stone’s incredible gallery and restaurant, the Buttery, on the Hebridean island of Luing. I ate for the first time salad that was entirely something other than the token quarter tomato, piece of cucumber and shred of iceberg lettuce. I was struck by lightning. Peppery rocket with homemade brown bread and butter and freshly made lemonade. It was the best meal of my life.