Chelo, Polo, Pulao

If the wind, the sun, and the dry desert air all had corresponding flavors, they would be at their best in the cooking of Central Asia and Persia. Rich pulaos, savory grilled meats, wintery stews, tandoor flatbreads, onions, tomatoes, and whole-milk yogurt: The basic foods of the region are foods we never get tired of eating. At home in our backyard we fire up some charcoal, rub a little freshly ground cumin seed into tiny strips of lamb, prepare some Persian rice, and gather around the grill to cook kebabs and flatbreads. Then we can feast on some of the most straightforward, satisfying foods we know.