Mayonnaise

Like vinaigrette, mayonnaise is a basic, all-purpose sauce that is quickly made—at least in its simpler forms—and infinitely varied. Like vinaigrette, it is easily produced in a blender (although it will emulsify perfectly well if you use a wire whisk and a bowl). And, like vinaigrette, the homemade version is far superior to the store-bought variety.

We do a basic mayonnaise, which you can vary by adding almost any herbs or spices you like; an anchovy-saffron version, whose strong flavor and brilliant color smacks of the Mediterranean: an unusual Asian mayonnaise, which has specific but unique uses: a mayonnaise based on a soft-cooked egg, essentially a perfect tartar sauce; and one based on lobster oil, which has incredible flavor.