Chiffon Cake

This tender, light and fluffy cake resembles a butter cake in formula and preparation. But because its shape and texture are close to that of a spongecake and because its leavening relies mainly on an egg-white meringue, it belongs in the sponge (or foam) category.

Traditional recipes for chiffon cake call for unflavored oil, which gives moistness and a tender crumb but imparts no flavor, rather than for melted butter. To offset blandness, I add salt, spices and sometimes fruit puree, or even cocoa powder or chocolate.