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Published 1999
Of all the smoked fish, haddock is the most varied in quality. Extreme yellow dyed fillets are generally reckoned to be the worst although I have to confess to liking them in preference to more exalted varieties. Smoked haddock is normally cooked before serving, but some of the milder types can be thinly sliced and served raw. Most haddock is cold-smoked like salmon but Arbroath smokies are hot-smoked (the smoking process involves heat, and the fish cook as they smoke). Cullen Skink, an attractively named Scottish soup, is made with this versatile fish, as is kedgeree and the hot mousse recipe.
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