Soho’s proximity to Chinatown has been a continuous blessing to me as a restaurateur. To be able to pop down to Gerrard Street and pick any of the marvellous foodstuffs on sale certainly helped to develop the type of food that Frith Street became known for. Probably best of all was the availability of Chinese greens when they were all but impossible to buy elsewhere. Bok-choy is my favourite, particularly the Shanghai variety with its equal distribution of green leaf and crisp white stalk. Here are two ways of serving it, neither Chinese, but both delicious.