Nonyas

Poh piah, a fresh spring roll, is a clear example of how the Chinese spring roll was transformed into a Malaysian delight. The wrapper is prepared like a French crepe. The filling consists mostly of cooked jicama (known locally as bangkuang, turnip, or yam bean) and assorted vegetables. These moist, delicate rolls are assembled to order. Poh piah parties, where guests are invited to roll their own at a host’s home, are a common social get-together.

Pong teh is another example of flawlessly combined Chinese ingredients and Malay techniques. The Chinese penchant for simmered, soy sauce-flavored stews melds with a Malay-derived pounded paste of shallots, garlic, and fermented brown bean sauce. Dried Chinese black mushrooms are simmered in this broth with pork or chicken and large chunks of potatoes.