Clams and Cockles

Although there are dozens of varieties of clams and cockles, only a few appear with any regularity in city fish markets. Most clams fall into one of two categories: soft-shelled and hard-shelled. Soft-shelled clams (also called steamers) are more difficult to find than hard-shelled types, and when they are available they’re usually eaten steamed, baked, or on the half shell. Hard-shelled clams are more common and are the best for making soups.

Most of the hard-shelled clams in fish markets are named according to their size, even though they are all the same species, called quahogs. The smallest clams are called littlenecks, medium-size clams are called cherrystones, and the largest are called chowder clams.