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Published 2009
Guinea fowl is widely available, but I would like to see it on more tables. The French, who have an enthusiastic hunger for this bird (or pintard, as they call it), also describe it as ‘joli-laide’, as in ‘ugly-beautiful’. Even with its blue-faced vulturine look, I think the guinea fowl is much more pretty than grotesque, in its beautiful spotted frock. But on being woken by their infernal dawn racket, one could only remark when seeing them sizzling through the oven door; ‘they had it coming.’
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