I have read somewhere that the people of India refer to their pickles and chutneys as ‘tongue touchers’, which I think is a most apt description, evocative of their nature and necessity for Inclusion in the ritual of everyday eating. Pickles - cooked preparations where vegetables or fruit are sharpened with vinegar and made fiery with assorted spices - give unparalleled diversity and sensuality to food. For those who appreciate the taste of preserves, this rich, vibrant and spicy pickle is an absolute essential in the larder. It can be served with curries, dosas (rice pancakes) or parathas (flaky Indian bread), or as an accompaniment to cold meats, grilled fish or seafood. It can also be used as a base for other preparations. A small quantity can go a long way.