Pine Nuts and the Umbrella Pine

The sculptural umbrella pine is a native of the Mediterranean basin. Its cones take three years to ripen, while other species fall at the end of two years. Inside and enclosed in the large handsome cones are ‘pignons doux’, pine nuts, encased in hard sooty little shells.

The resinous flavour of the pignons is an essential local taste. We find them in the Pays catalan accompanying fish, rabbit or chicken, in sauces and cold aubergine dishes and in pâtisseries. La Languedocienne, a flat, biscuity gâteau with a cross on it, is sprinkled with them, as is the apple- filled pastry called la Narbonnaise. Pine nut biscuits and meringues are in every pastry shop.