Introduction

Appears in

By Caroline Conran

Published 2012

  • About
A new country, when it is profoundly interesting, is often like a muddled manuscript that has to be decoded.
Henri Matisse
Some years ago now, leaving familiar French pathways, I stepped into the hall of an abandoned wine-maker’s house in the Languedoc, and because it was near my friends and the light was so good I decided to stay – it was a step into a new country.
Near the house is a river called the Argent-Double – Double Silver or, as some people call it, Double Your Money. This runs at two levels. On the surface there is a clear stream, full of little grey fish, gliding over smooth rock. In a drought, it appears to dry up, it stops and then magically restarts a kilometre or so further on. But it has not stopped. A second, secret underground stream runs beneath, through the rock, in a hidden channel.