“IN A TERRACOTTA MARMITE, GREASED WITH FINELY CHOPPED PORK FAT, SIMMER AN OLD ROOSTER WITH SOME CARROTS & ONIONS. PERFUME THE BIRD WITH GARLIC, PARSLEY, THYME & BAY & BASTE WITH OLIVE OIL FROM AIX & LATER WITH A GLASS OR TWO OF BRANDY. WITH THIS FIRST COCKEREL OF THE NEW YEAR SERVE A DOZEN PARTRIDGES TO REPRESENT THE 12 MONTHS OF THE YEAR, 30 FRIED EGGS FOR THE DAYS OF THE MONTH & 30 PITCH BLACK TRUFFLES FOR THE NIGHTS.” (RENÉ JOUVEAU: ‘LA CUISINE PROVENÇALE DE TRADITION POPUĹAIRE’)