Clos de la Violette

Aix-en-Provence is a good town for pâtisseries-some of the best in France-but surprisingly, considering Aix’s patrician history as a political and artistic centre, not for regional restaurants. One of only a few exceptions is the Clos de la Violette, a rambling old house in quiet back-streets near Cézanne’s old studio. The owner and chef, Jean-Marc Banzo, left his home town of Vaison-la-Romaine at the age of 15 to work as a cook all over Provence. Inspired by recipes found in old cookbooks, he developed his own style, appropriately as elegant as Aix itself. Jean-Marc has the traditional Provençal respect for vegetables, which he shops for in Aix’s delightful market square, the Place Richelme, and has just planted his own herb and vegetable garden. “Right now it gives more work than vegetables,” Jean-Marc said ruefully, “but this summer-the best basil in Provence!”