MARSEILLES’ QUAI DE RIVE NEUVE IS LINED WITH ‘DÉGUSTATION COQUILLAGES’ SIGNS. THE LUSCIONS, SALTY OYSTERS ‘CÔTES BLEUES’ ARE PREFERRED, OR SPIKY SEA URCHINS CUT OPEN TO REVEAL OZONE-SWEET MOUTHFULS OF CORAL. ONLY REAL SHELLFISH FANS CAN FACE THE FUNGUS-LIKE EXTERIOR OF THE VIOLET OR FIGUE DE MER (SEA FIG). CUT OPEN IT REVEALS A SPONGY GREY INTERIOR FILLED WITH WHAT COULD ONLY POLITELY BE DESCRIBED AS VERY WET SCRAMBLED EGGS. THIS, SCOOPED OUT WITH THE THUMB & CONSUMED, STILL QUIVERING, WITHOUT BENEFIT OF BREAD OR LEMON, REWARDS THE COURAGEOUS WITH AN OVERPOWERING BUT DELICIOUS TASTE OF THE SEAEVEN BETTER THAN OYSTERS.