Maussane

Just south of Les Baux are two of the best oil mills in Provence, one at Fontvieille, and the other, more famous - Maître Cornille’s - in Maussane. It seems hardy credible that chefs from all over south-west Provence come to buy their olive oil in this quiet village that is little more than a cluster of old houses around a dusty square full of Provençal grandmothers. Until you taste the oil. And where there is good oil, there are usually good restaurants; on the main street of Maussane is ‘Ou Ravi Provençau’, where Jean-François Richard and his wife Aurore entertain friends, customers and extended family. Maître Cornille comes often - for Jambon Maison smoked over rosemary branches and served with home-pickled cherries, for Provençal rabbit simmered in fresh thyme and exquisite wild strawberry ice-cream. So does Flo, an ex-chef who, 20 years ago rode to Paris on his white Camarguais horse. Both Flo and the horse saw the Tour Eiffel and drank champagne in the Café Royal. They preferred Maussane.