From the Apt the road south climbs past vineyards into the Luberon’s rugged core, dropping suddenly to a narrow river gorge that snakes through the mountains to Lourmarin, where Albert Camus is buried. Overshadowing the town, at least in size, is a massive fifteenth-century château to the west, Denise Pélas lives down the road from the château, next to a farmhouse in which both her father and grandmother were born, grew up and worked. Denise was smitten when young by the tastes and smells of her paternal grandmother’s cooking and even after years spent in other countries, those recipes are still the ones that she and her friends appreciate the most.