Often only one dish is memorable in a meal, and even a bowl of wrinkled purplish - black olives is improved by the warmth of sun through leafy branches, or by the enthusiasm of a friendly waiter. Asked why he believed the old-fashioned Provençal cuisine was so good, a waiter in the hilltop town of Bonnieux said, “Madame, nowadays we bathe in the sun, In my grandmother’s day, they ate it”.
© 1987 Leslie Forbes estate. All rights reserved.