Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison-la-Romaine is really three towns: one not very ruined Roman, one medieval, climbing up a wooded hill to a 12th century château, and one relatively modern-18th and 19th-century. In Roman times, Vaison, one of the richest colonies in Provence, was filled with writers and merchants, the remains of whose houses, shops & gardens can still be seen. In the main square of the modern town there is the inevitable fountain where a man sits forever selling brochettes or crêpes or roast chestnuts, depending on the season, and a row of what in winter appears to be far too many outdoor cafés, even for Provence. In summer these are all full. And one at least attracts all the town’s moped fans.