The“Local” Wines of the Auberge from Provence and the High Savoy

Whenever Mademoiselle Vivette drives southward to visit her family in Provence, she loads her large station wagon for the return trip with the feathery light, almost grape juicy white wines from the far south (most of them now imported into the United States at extraordinarily fair prices), including the dry white V.D.Q.S. (the indication of government supervision of quality) from the village of

Rognac in the distria of Aix-en-Provence, the Bellet from the vineyards around Nice, with the Bandol and Estandon from the Mediterranean coast. All are worth a serious exploration in terms of charming, light, everyday wines.