This large group of vegetables provides great variety and pleasure. Peas and beans should be exceptionally fresh so that short and simple cooking will reveal their delicate flavour at its best. If you have ever picked peas and beans straight from the garden you will know that it is almost as difficult not to eat them immediately as it is when picking soft fruits at the height of summer.
Ordinary cabbages are one of the most underrated vegetables; they are delicious if they are cooked briefly, remaining crisp and fresh, or equally good stewed long and gently in a little buttery stock until really soft and mellow flavoured. Neither of these cooking methods will produce the terrible smell which put off many of us during schooldays or while in hospital; now I love a plate of vibrant green and tender kale leaves or sliced spring greens briefly cooked and sprinkled with dark soy sauce.