Game

Venison, rabbit and, to a slightly lesser extent, hare are now readily available and reasonable in cost, but they still make a special and often impressive meal. Because rabbit is bred domestically and most venison is farmed they are beautifully tender, even if they lack the intensity of flavour of the wild animals. Venison is also the leanest of all red meats, which is a healthy bonus.

All game should have been hung for a certain amount of time to develop its flavour and tenderness; after a few days hanging, enzymes in the flesh cause a chemical change which tenderizes the meat while strengthening the taste. Very young venison needs hanging most of all as it has the least flavour but older animals with more flavour can be very tough; they should be marinated for at least 24 hours and it is not unusual to marinate large joints for up to four days. The best venison comes from animals aged between 18 and 24 months. When roasting, grilling or frying the meat should never be cooked too long as it is so lean and will become dull and dry – ideally it should be cooked fairly swiftly so it remains pink and juicy inside.