To Poach Soaked Salt Cod

Cover the pieces with cold water, or with a mixture of cold water and milk if you want the cod to come out white. Slowly bring it to a bare simmer. (This poaching water can be flavored with herbs or with a split, unpeeled whole head of garlic—an excellent idea when you intend to use the same water later to cook potatoes.) When the first white foam appears on the surface of the cooking liquid, remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let stand for 10 minutes or so, depending upon the thickness of the fish. (The reason for removing the pot completely from the fire and then letting the dish “cook” in the receding heat is to ensure that the cod never boils, thus preserving its succulence—if cod boils, it becomes leathery.) To tell when the fish is done, stick the point of a sharp knife into the thickest part; if there is little resistance, the cod is ready. Lift the pieces out and let them dry on a kitchen towel. When cool enough to handle, remove the fatty skin and all the bones. Save the poaching liquid if you are making Puree of Salt Cod, Potatoes, and Walnut Oil, or for a fish soup.