Sweet Kugels and Desserts

After a perfect meal, I prefer a simple dessert: a gentle conclusion to the evening’s tastes, not a lavish, sugary departure from them.

The old Yiddish favorite, rozinkes and mandlen (winy raisins and warmed almonds), or juicy pear slices with toasted walnuts, thinly cut oranges dotted with pomegranate rubies, a bowl of berries, some dead-ripe peaches. I love fruit compotes poached and sweetened just enough to heighten their flavors and soften their textures. Treats that speak of the seasons and taste of themselves best complement the big-flavored dishes I’ve presented in this book.