Hot and Cold Water Doughs

Non-yeasted Chinese wheat flour doughs fall into two categories: those made with cold water and those made with boiling water. Doughs made with boiling water have a special chewy quality and translucence, owing to the fact that the hot water “cooks” the flour and expands the starch molecules while the dough is being made. Boiling water doughs are typically used in recipes for steamed dumplings and mandarin pancakes, where their delicate character suits the nature of the dish. Cold water doughs are more often found with heartier fare—pan-fried dumplings, boiled dumplings, and northern breadstuffs with “bite.” Chinese will often say that the more velvety hot water doughs typify the dumplings and dim sum pastries of the south, whereas the more robust cold water doughs belong to the north. In general, it is true, though to me it seems more a matter of cooking method: steamed things tend to begin with the translucent hot dough and boiled and fried things with the opaque cold water dough.