The Times Cook in Spain

The Spanish way with short eats is well known. Tapas long since left the dark cool bars of the Barrio Gotico in Barcelona and the dazzling, sun-dappled alleyways of Seville to colonize the restaurant and café culture of the waiting world. But Spain is still where you will find the widest variety of tapas reflecting the regions and their local produce. In Cadiz, small shark or cazón are sliced, dipped in sherry vinegar, floured and deep-fried. In Galicia, you will find the sweet hot peppers, the small green pimentos del Padrón of which I will always have a vivid memory in the Bar Escuela in Bayona.