Oysters are in season from September 1st-April 30th. Natives, that is Colchester, Whitstable or Helford oysters, are sold within this season. Others sold outside the season are imported. Native oysters are sold and eaten by the dozen, nines or half dozen and since they are eaten raw they must be very fresh with the shells tightly closed. If you give your fishmonger sufficient warning he will open them for you. They will be packed with the deep shell underneath to retain the oyster liquor. Serve the oysters open in the shells with the liquor. Arrange them on a flat plate and pass lemon wedges and thinly sliced brown bread and butter.