Jaban

The maker of these sweetmeats walks around the streets carrying in front of him, like a church candle, his ribbon of sugar rolled round a bamboo cane or, stuck on a wooden tray, white macaroons decorated with an almond.

Caster sugar, egg-white and an ounce or two of gum mastic are all mixed together a long time before cooking. While eating these sweets stuffed with almonds or sesame seeds you will think of nougat, or meringues that have not quite come off.

The merchant of the Ben Safi souk who is renowned for these sweets is one of my friends. He has never consented to give me the recipe.