Cooking Tips

Appears in
Veg-table: Recipes, Techniques, and Plant Science for Big-Flavored, Vegetable-Focused Meals
Veg-table

By Nik Sharma

Published 2023

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  • When purchasing most green vegetables, generally avoid any that are yellowing or spotted with black. Yellowing is an indicator of overripening, a sign that the bright green chlorophyll pigment is waning and that fresh green is on its way out.
  • When brassicas are cut or chopped, their broken cells release an enzyme called myrosinase that produces a sulfurous smell and bitter-tasting substances. This ability developed as a defense mechanism to protect the plant from animals and insects. We humans, on the other hand, either enjoy the flavor—or don’t.
  • The sulfurous flavor of freshly cut brassicas such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and radishes in raw dishes like salads can be mellowed by submerging them in a bowl of ice-cold water for 15 to 30 minutes after chopping. Drain the water and pat the vegetables dry before using. The cold water prevents the enzyme responsible for creating that sulfurous smell from doing its job and washes away any of these flavors created during chopping. For preparations that involve heat, high temperatures destroy the enzyme, so there is no need to soak the vegetables before cooking.
  • Contrary to popular belief, lemon juice does not prevent myrosinase from producing sulfurous smells. The vitamin C (ascorbic acid) present in lemon and other citrus juices actually acts as a cofactor and helps accelerate the biochemical reaction. I’ve noticed that vinegar doesn’t help much either—pickled brassicas can smell quite potent.
  • Pairing wines with brassicas is a little tricky, as the sulfurous flavors of brassicas interfere with the appreciation of wine’s subtle complexity. In general, white wines tend to fare a little better; red wine and champagne aren’t the best options.
  • Buy broccoli and broccolini that’s firm and not dry. Trim the tough bottom ends before cooking. If the stalks turn limp, trim the base and submerge it in a cup of water, cut side down, and refrigerate for a few hours to help revive them.
  • Strip the midribs and the tough end of the stalks off large-leafed varieties like dinosaur kale. This is unnecessary with tender baby kale.
  • Cabbage leaves are sturdy, which makes them great for stuffing and forming rolls. However, you must soften them slightly to make them pliable enough to fold without ripping. Dip them in boiling water, as is done in the recipe for Stuffed Cabbage Rolls in Tomato Sauce.
  • If you can’t find watercress, baby arugula is a good substitute. Massaging chopped or whole kale leaves with olive oil and salt uses mechanical action to break down the tough cellular fibers and improve the mouthfeel (see Sweet Potato Kale Caesar Salad). Massaging benefits the tougher varieties of kale, such as dinosaur (which is also called lacinato, Tuscan, or cavolo nero). There’s no need to massage baby kale; it is already tender.