The Southern Cotes du Rhone and Provence

The southern Côtes du Rhône wines come from the heart of Provence, none of them very far from Avignon. The best known and the most interesting is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the largest single appellation contrôlée in France. Less than two per cent of the production is white wine, the remainder red. Thirteen grape varieties, including several white, are permitted in red Châteauneuf-du-Pape but, as there is no legislation concerning proportions, it is possible to produce Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Grenache alone. Château de Beaucastel has all 13; most growers limit themselves to five or six varieties with Grenache dominating and Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah recurring most often; Clairette, a white grape, is often present also. Châteauneuf takes age well and eventually develops a rich, gamey bouquet, making it a classic partner to civet de lièvre, a red wine and hare stew finished with the hare’s blood.