Dried Beans

In all my travels in Veracruz, I think I have been served pinto beans just once (in the exquisite frijoles refritos en mantequilla of La Viuda restaurant in Alvarado). Otherwise, “beans” always means black beans. Large black beans are even sold in the market as frijoles veracruzanos in other Mexican regions. Beans are nearly inseparable from any Mexican meal, but they are even more important in Veracruz because they are used so often as a filling for antojitos (snacks) or tamales.

No Mexican cook would ever soak dried beans before cooking. You simply put them in the pot and cook them in water with an onion, some epazote, and (later in the cooking) a little salt. When they’re done, they’re done, and people don’t worry about beans taking more time (if they’re old and somewhat dry) or less (if they’re fresher). You then eat them gloriously soupy — in a bowl, or perhaps ladled over rice. For everyday beans, no one in Mexico would ever cook away or drain off all the liquid. They are drained only if they will be served in another form, such as refried beans.