Crayfish Salad from a Lithuanian Lagoon

At the Curonian Spit, a thin strip of land squeezed in between a mirror-still lagoon and a choppy Baltic Sea, we stayed next to the Hill of Witches sculpture park in Juodkrantė. Our surroundings seemed like some kind of exotic layer cake: frothy sea lapped a golden beach flanked by rosehip bushes and fragrant pines, with clusters of pastel-coloured houses perched on top like marzipan flowers. In the nineteenth century, the amber-rich lagoon was heavily mined, but these days nearby Amber Bay