The most dramatic difference between hand- and machine-made mayonnaise can be tasted in aioli (garlic mayonnaise) made in a mortar and pestle (not the smooth chemist’s variety but one of semi-rough marble). The texture is like velvet, the flavors are subtle, and the result is more digestible.
Work the garlic, egg yolks, bread crumbs, salt, and a little stock in a mortar or food processor to a paste. When the paste is smooth, start adding the oil slowly, working it all the time. Add as much oil as it will take without breaking; then add stock to thin it to the right consistency.
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