Barbecue Sauce

In Berkeley, California, there is a barbecue place called Everett and Jones’ Barbecue, which makes a mouth-watering barbecue sauce. When I was chef at Ventana in Big Sur, I had to produce a barbecue, but was four hours from the nearest good sauce. It was winter, so I had a lot of time to think about how that secret sauce was made. Apple butter came to mind as a possible ingredient, mainly because of the similarity of color and texture. In Ventana’s kitchen storeroom were shelves and shelves