When I first heard of a Middle-Eastern cheese called labne I was intrigued, but I refrained from using it in my restaurant because I thought it was Lebanese. Then I discovered that the name comes from laban, an Egyptian-Arabic word for ‘milk’, that it is just strained yoğurt, treated with a little lemon and salt; and that it can be found all over Turkey under the name süzme. The Lebanese like to dip their labne in zaatar, and the Egyptians dip them in dukka, but I thought I’d be Turkish and use mint and sumac.