Rolled Pastry Cigars with Feta and Parsley

This is the first of three recipes for böreks, the pastries that got their name from a Turkish verb meaning ‘to twist’. You can tie yourself in knots trying to fold the pastry as neatly as a Turkish cook. We suggest you just relax and try to make shapes that vaguely resemble cigars (this recipe) or spirals (the next recipe) or square parcels (the third recipe).

The word börek is very old—there’s a reference to a sugar burek in a twelfth-century book ca