Beef Goulash

There’s too much mythology and not enough research in discussions about food in Turkey. Turkish chefs like to claim the Hungarians got their word ‘goulash’ from the Turkish term kul aşi (which means ‘common man’s dish’—a stew served to soldiers 300 years ago). But, if they’d bothered to check, they’d find that in Hungarian the word gulyas means a ‘cattle herder’, and since the ninth century, the Hungarian herders have been in the habit of carrying beef and vegetables and ma