Kebap restaurants in Turkey never buy lamb mince. They always make their own using leg and belly meat, and a mighty machete called a zırh. A kebap master will choose an apprentice by putting a piece of paper between the chopping board and the lamb and asking the candidate to mince the meat using only a zırh. If there are no cuts in the paper, the candidate gets the job.
With this kebap it’s important to use the finest bulgur, which is known in Gaziantep as simit. This is not to be confused with the sesame rings we discussed in the breakfast chapter. In Antep dialect, simit means the smallest grains of wheat that fit through a sieve. Their other name is elek altı, which means ‘under the sieve’.
This is a perfect dish for a barbecue, because the salad is char-grilled along with the meat.