Probably because of the puritanism of their governments over the centuries, Turks have expressed their fascination with anatomy in their approach to naming foodstuffs. There are treats called woman’s bellybutton, vizier’s finger, lady’s lips, sluts’ dumplings and brothel donuts. The plump patties in this recipe made from young cows obviously reminded some nineteenth-century chef of a pleasant experience. The first published mention of this kind of köfte, using mince, watercress and eggs, appears in a Persian dictionary published around 1800— under a more polite name.