It’s traditional to sprinkle rosewater on the hands of mourners at the wakes that take place forty days after burials in Turkey. For that reason, many Turks associate the smell of rosewater with mourning. In the Mediterranean town of Tarsus, near the Toros mountains, they associate rosewater with an iced treat that is sold from carts in the streets. There, for five months of the year, the bici bici hawkers would head up the hill and fill their carts with snow. Then they’d race back down, and for a lira coin you’d get a generous scoop of pudding and snow spread on a plate and soaked with a sweet syrup made from the petals of roses or pink tulips. Nowadays, bici bici is sold from refrigerated trucks all year round.