It’s traditional to sprinkle rosewater on the hands of mourners at the wakes that take place forty days after burials in Turkey. For that reason, many Turks associate the smell of rosewater with mourning. In the Mediterranean town of Tarsus, near the Toros mountains, they associate rosewater with an iced treat that is sold from carts in the streets. There, for five months of the year, the bici bici hawkers would head up the hill and fill their carts with snow. Then they’d race bac