Clams with spinach and brandy

This may not be the prettiest of El Faro’s dishes, but it is one of the tastiest, with its creamy, garlicky, eggy, brandied sauce. It works well as a main course; but, of course, with fewer clams it can be an appetizer. It was developed some thirty years ago by Fernando Córdoba, Mario’s uncle, who heads El Faro del Puerto, the sister restaurant across the bay. His original recipe poaches, rather than scrambles the eggs—more