• bechamel sauce
• 20 g(¾ oz) butter
• 1 tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour
• 125 ml(4 fl oz/½ cup) milk, warmed
• freshly grated nutmeg
• 4 large thin slices beef, about 50 g(1¾ oz) each and 2 mm(1/16 inch) thick
• 4 thin small slices fontina cheese or similar
• 4 thin small slices ham
• about 4 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour
• 1 egg
• about 65 g(2½ oz/⅔ cup) dry breadcrumbs
• 20 g(¾ oz) butter
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

To make the béchamel, melt the butter in a small saucepan. Whisk in the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, then begin adding the warm milk. It will be immediately absorbed, so work quickly, whisking with one hand while adding ladlefuls of milk with the other. When the sauce seems to be smooth and not too stiff, add salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg. Continue cooking, even after it comes to the boil, for 5 minutes or so, mixing all the time. It should be a very thick and smooth sauce. Remove from the heat to cool a little.

Lay a slice of beef flat on a board. Lay a slice of cheese over one half of it and put a slice of ham on top of that. Add a dollop of béchamel and spread it gently to almost cover the ham, but leaving a border all around the edge. Fold the other half of the meat over the béchamel, pressing it down well to seal the edges.

Put the flour on a large plate and season with a twist or two of pepper, if you like. Break the egg into a flat bowl and whisk with a little salt, and put the breadcrumbs on a large plate. Pat the meat parcels gently in the flour, coating both sides, and then dip in the egg, turning them to coat well. Now pat them in the breadcrumbs so that they are well covered.

Heat the butter and oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium–high heat until sizzling. Add the parcels and fry until they start to become firm and are deep golden on the underside. Adjust the heat so they don’t burn. Turn over carefully, taking care not to pierce them, and cook the other side. Don’t worry if some of the filling starts to ooze out. Lift out onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to soak up the excess oil. Serve warm with a small sprinkling of salt, if necessary.