Gennaro Contaldo: native of Minori on the Amalfi coast; fungi-finder general; curler of the most intricate and delicate pastas; as hospitable and generous as a man can be; and brewer of soups to warm the cockles of the hardest of hearts. Gennaro cooked me this soup when I was feeling particularly blue and it cheered me to the rafters. He served it on a tray next
