Anna Jones describes the time she ate a version of these Bengali prawns in a beach-side shack in Kerala. The restaurant was just a few pieces of wood thrown together, but these prawns — the size of her hand — were the best spicy, nigella-seedy prawns she’s ever had. This recipe for a Bengali version is the closest she has found: having been blown-away by the original, she only remembers the huge amount of spring onions they used — four bunches! This dish is a reminder of how a superior juicy prawn can leave a lobster pink with embarrassment.