Calcutta marks the end of the Indian leg of our travels. From here, the journey will continue on board the Rangoon: the P&O liner bound for Hong Kong and the Orient. But before we leave, I think we should mark the occasion with a recipe inspired by the street-food of this teeming city: the wonderful and gentle Atul Kochhar’s take on a popular roadside snack created during Muslim rule in East India. Atul serves his wraps with a simple salad of matchsticked cucumber, slices of red onion and tomato, tossed in lemon juice and sprinkled with chilli powder and toasted cumin seeds.
First make the filling. Heat the oil in a wok, then add the cumin seeds and sauté until they crackle. Add the ginger, green chilli and onion and sauté gently until the onion is softened.
Add the carrot, cabbage and mushrooms, and sauté for a further minute. Add the ground spices and salt, and cook for 2–3 minutes. The vegetables should have softened slightly by now. Add the strips of paneer and lightly toss with the spicy veg.
Remove the wok from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly before finally adding the lemon juice and coriander leaves.
Put the gram flour, salt, spices and chopped coriander into a bowl and stir well. Add about 5–6 tablespoons of water and mix to form a smooth thick batter.
To cook the chapattis, heat
Lay out the chapattis on a clean surface and place a good
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