These thin rolls of
sushi, made with a variety of fillings, are light and delicate. Here are two popular vegetarian versions: one contains strips of sweet braised gourd
(nori maki), the other crisp cucumber slices garnished with sesame and fiery horseradish
(kappa maki). Good in a lunchbox by themselves or with
sushi-stuffed pillows, they could be served for dinner, too, with
Salt-Grilled Fish and blocks of