This is an earthy family recipe from restaurateur and food writer Jesse Cool, who is a passionate vegetable eater. Make sure you buy a fresh cabbage with bright, crisp outer leaves; it will taste less “cabbagey.” I make a simple marinara sauce with a bit of basil to use here, but a commercial brand is also good in a pinch; just remember that it will be more salty than homemade. Pannecoi is a great sid